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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.